Some patterns of tops and dresses without sleeves sin too unnecessarily deep armhole. But this shortcoming is easily corrected directly on the paper details of the pattern of the shelf and back of the product.
Perhaps this is a random mistake made at the stage of development of the pattern.
Or the openness of the armhole is due to the seasonality of the model, an exclusively summer option, for example. Or such was the designer's idea, which is only a design feature of this particular model.
But not everyone likes this openness. First of all, few are ready to wear a dress on a naked body, even in summer. And the linen put on under a dress with too deep an armhole, and strives to be in the public domain.
In addition, this feature of the model can cause banal aesthetic discomfort.
In order not to deny yourself the desire to sew a dress with a “problem” armhole and wear it for your pleasure, you need to adjust the armhole by simply reducing its depth. To do this is quite simple, and you do not have to make any other additional changes to the pattern.
Patterns of dresses Burda with a deep armhole:
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In each of these models I corrected (raised) the armholes. And since the patterns of these dresses are very successful (I used them more than once), I saved them with all the changes made.
So how to raise an armhole
Step 1
Reshape the details of the pattern (shelf and back or bodice of the shelf and back) on a tracing paper and cut it out.
Step 2
Go to the mirror, turn sideways and attach the bodice detail in front of you.
You will immediately understand the scale of the disaster if the armhole is really too deep.
Step 3
Raise one hand slightly up.
Using a ruler, measure the distance from the cutout of the armhole to the place where the depth of the armhole suits you.
The obtained value is the difference by which it will be necessary to raise the armhole on the details of the shelves and backs.
Most often, this difference varies from 1.5 to 3 cm.
In both patterns, I got a value of 3 cm.
Step 4
Glue tracing paper to the paper parts of the shelf and backrest throughout the depth of the armhole.
"Lift" the armhole - extending the line of the side seam up by the received number of centimeters.
From the obtained point, draw a new line of the armhole.
Model 118 Burda 2/2013
The yellow marker marks the line of the original pattern.
And then I sewed two dresses.
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Model 109 Burda 4/2013
The yellow marker marks the line of the original pattern.
Step 5
Then you can sew the mock up of the bodice to make sure that the corrections made are correct.
Dress "Beauty"
In some sleeveless models, it is difficult to understand from the technical drawing how deep the armhole is. For example, "Beauty" dress fromBurda Style 4/2020:
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The technical drawing of this model has caused many doubts about the depth of the armhole.
But in fact, the armhole is not deep in the pattern of this dress. For clarity, I imposed one of the patterns with the corrected armhole on the detail of the bodice of the pattern of the dress "Beauty."
✂ To dispel such doubts, it is best to stitch the layout and check the depth of the armhole empirically.
✂ To do this, just cut out the details of the bodice of the shelf and back.
✂ Sew side seams.
✂ Perform shoulder seams.
✂ If tucks are provided in the pattern (on the bodice details), follow them.
✂ If the doubts are confirmed and the depth of the armhole is really great, then, as in the first case, you will need a ruler, and preferably an assistant.
✂ Stand in front of the mirror sideways.
✂ Slightly raise one hand up.
✂ Put the index finger of the other hand in the place where the depth of the armhole suits you.
✂ Then independently determine the value using a ruler or ask the assistant to measure the distance from the cutout of the armhole on the layout to your index finger.
✂ Make the appropriate changes to the pattern.
What to do if you have already cut the dress and only by trying to understand that the armhole is very deep
You can try to raise the armhole due to shoulder seams. But in this case, you will have to adjust the length of the shoulder seam, neckline and tuck, if any.
But this method is suitable only for non-cutting models with integral parts of the front bodice and back. In other cases, you will have to completely redraw the bodice of the front and back. Or add an intermediate part between the bodice and the skirt of the dress.
Therefore, be careful, re-measure the pattern, sew layouts and try not to make mistakes.
How to make a back of a wrap blouse
Exactly on the figure: waist tucks on the dress
How to adjust the bodice of a low-cut dress
Author of the master class and photo: Julia Dekanov
